Fly Home....tomorrow

April 30:  Yesterday,  we visited Blenheim Palace where Winston Churchill was born. This is just one wing of the impressive residence. It is huge, grand, and "was built to impress" according to one of the guides.  No photography allowed inside but there is a Winston Churchill display and the bedroom where he was born. He did not live here after childhood.  Blenheim was given to the Duke of Marlborough by Queen Anne after he had won the battle of Blenheim in 1704. Nice gift, including the 2000 acres, now gorgeous gardens and a field where jousting tournaments are still held.

Nice front door, Sir Winston.

Now here's a boy who knew where he was going, like me, remarked A-bear.

No sons, no fun!

Friday, April 27....


 Leaving Scotland last Friday, we stopped in Jedburgh, another abbey, another old house where Queen Mary resided for a month.  Mary, says Earl, was a tragic figure in British history, because of her inability to choose friends and husbands wisely.

 John Knox, among others, were Mary's opponents. Knox attempted to influence Mary to no avail. Mary's greatest contribution to history was her son, James VI of Scotland who then became James I of England.  He is responsible for the King James Bible (400th anniversary in 2011) plus his kingdom united Scotland and England.

Jedburgh Abbey has overlooked the town since 1138. At night it is lighted through the arches revealing it's amazing architectural arches.

IF BONES AND STONES COULD TALK....

April 29, Sunday evening....back in England.

Although the skies have threatened, most of our touring has been rain-less.  Two days, one in York and today were drenchers.  It being Sunday, we took our day of rest and holed up in this B&B near Warwick and Stratford upon Avon.  Nice day to blog....

I will post a bunch of pictures from the last 4 days in Scotland. On a map, you could trace our drive from the west coast to the east of Scotland along a scenic drive north of Loch Lomond, along the river Tay, to the river Tweed.  All postcard material.

Each of the castles, abbeys and cathedrals we've seen have a part in Earl's ancestry. Names like McAlpin (during Macbeth's time); Hume, John Knox, Scone, Stirling, Blair Atholl, Dunkeld are known to locals. But when Earl arrives, he often knows more about parts of the history than do the guides. He can spend hours in a room, a site, old stones and bones and it's truly meaningful to him.  I enjoy his fascination with history, but I would never plumb the depths he does. 

We have hundreds of photos, of course. My skim-the-surface interest makes the blog just a taste of what we've seen. But I do now have a deeper appreciation for the bloodshed over kingdoms; over belief systems, over genealogies that determined "divine right of kings and queens".  And all this is a huge part of our own inheritance.  Many Scots would love to independent from Britain. A very proud people, yet open and welcoming.

Blair Athhol above; piper plays on the hour here, below.

Entry to Blair Athol had four walls, at least 50 ft high like this.

Dunkeld Cathedral is being restored.

The front of the Cathedral is used for church services today. the huge rear section is being restored by Historic Scotland

Been waiting for the church mouse.

You gotta love these old places....when's dinner?

Hume Castle. Earl's great grandmother was a Hume and her ancestry is traced to 

this place.

Hume Castle-Fortress like walls on a hill with 360* view.

The Hume Coat of Arms

More family at a place called the Hersel...near Coldstream.  Imagine heating this place?

 

3500 years ago...as seen on April 25, 2012

Near Dunadd are ancient stone circles and burial cairns from the Neolithic age.

Amidst sheep farms and daily life stand these ancient ruins. Of course, the walking paths and fields are open to visitors and walkers, but sometimes you have to stop for a shepherd on an ATV getting his flock from one field to another.

These still stand from 3500 years ago

A burial cairn? Probably.

There are two such circles in this area, but it is believed that many more may exist, yet to be uncovered.

Ancient concentric circles...calendar? sundials?

Larger stones nearby

Port of Crinan Lighthouse

 We continued driving looking for another site, but came to the end of the road at Crinan.  This had been a very important port, also the beginning of a canal system which brought spices and foods from Europe into Scotland. We enjoyed coffee, met a couple who "holiday" here twice a year. Both retired from Royal Air Force, so compared notes with Earl on aviation, military life and their travels. 

 After a very long day of hiking, touring, getting lost, we decided to stay again at Oban. Our search for a bed brought us to happy, joyful Frances and the Kilchrenan house overlooking the bay.  Not only very reasonable, but a beautiful room, new bed and fabulous Scottish Breakfast, complete with black pudding and haggis. Her husband Jon cooked the best eggs Earl has ever had.  We are eating everything they offer (can't quite handle the black pudding....look it up); and then we can make it to supper.

Leaving the Kilchrenan House

If you are ever in the neighborhood!

After Iona, Goodbye to Kate

April 24-25:   After Iona it was time for Kate to get back to London, so we saw her off from Oban on the bus to Glasgow, to catch the train back to her home.  We are missing her cheery, informative banter and energy. See you back in London, Kate.

We went southward to see Dunadd Fort, another site where ancient Scotti and Pictish kings may have been coronated. I'll upload our photos of the trail to the top where a stone holds footprint and basin. If you insert your foot there, you are king for the moment.

If the shoe fits....

Coronation Basin...leave your alms, please.

King for a Day

Macbear and Abear loved scrambling about the fort.

Just how many kings, forts, castles and important stones can one small country have?

IONA

The Abbey - Iona   -The birthplace of Christianity in Britain after St. Columba came from Ireland in 565 A.D. to establish a monastery. A spiritual place for many who come for week long community experiences at the Abbey. Many others come to be in a silent  spot to commune with God. The sea, the sky, the hills and the light all contribute to its beauty.

     The rocks, many colors and sizes including the green Iona marble cover the land.  You can find community or solitude at any given moment. We stayed at the Iona Hostel on the west end of the island.  A really comfortable hostel, good beds fun fellow sojourners-young and old-made for lively dinner conversations.
There was a writer's course happening this week also. John the owner is most helpful and very knowledgeable about the area.  And don't forget the sheep and cattle, organic gardens, small craft shops and a taxi if you have to get on the 7 a.m. ferry.

Looking down on a farm from a hill at sunset.

Kate in complete joy "somewhere over the rainbow.". But where is Jordan?

Our hostel set against some hillocks with large windows overlooking the sea.

Trip to Iona....April 21

 By yon bonnie banks.....Loch Lomond on the left was our view for half the trip to Oban where we would catch the ferry and bus to Iona. We pulled over to take in the view, but took in much more!  Kate, master forager, found wild garlic to collect and...

Oh happy day! A-Bear aviator ran into his long lost Scot cousin  "Mac" McBear just rambling on the lakeside path.  Big bear hugs and tears of joy convinced Mac-Bear to come along!

So the 5 of us drove northward on the narrowest of roads finally turning into Oban and finding the ferry to the Island of Mull for the 1 hr bus ride to the short ferry to Iona.

Iona is so special it will have the next post all to itself.

An unexpected stop

Saturday, April 21....   Continuing westward from our castles we were heading toward Loch Lomond, just proud of ourselves that we were adjusting to the roads and soon be at a B & B in a woodsy-lakey setting. I was just getting Kenneth McKellar's music adjusted when the red Peugeot beeped a beep; and the dashboard lit up with "STOP". The thermostat was all the way into the red. Oh, Mon Dieu...what to do. Pulled over into a driveway with a sign, "Boquan House". Called Avis and were told that a tow truck would be out in about an hour.  Soon a woman and her son pulled in and got out to open the gate, but first came to see if we were all right. She was most dismayed that we had to sit there, but we assured we help was on the way.  But she left her phone number just in case.

Pretty soon her husband drove back from the house to invite us for tea and to come get warm in the house. We decided to stay in the car, but when Avis called and said it would be another hour, we went to their gorgeous estate house with acres of green fields, horses, cattle, sheep.  Claire and her husband joined us for tea...and wine in one of the drawing rooms with very down to earth hospitality. I've just learned online that they are millionaires who've asked their district to disallow walkers on property surrounding their house. Walking or "rambling" in Britain is national pastime, and landowners are not allowed to block entrance to these paths. The Snowies have been afraid that kidnappers or burglars would target them once they saw this grand estate. Indeed, in 2009, a stable fire killed their children's ponies...a possible arson.

Enroute to our breakdown

Well, soon our happy hour ended when Earl called to say we and our car had to be towed to Glasgow Avis for a swap. Mr. Snowie drove us back where we rode on the tow truck, with a jolly young man and his girlfriend who would ride with him for the night. He talked all the way in "Glaswegian" dialect...so we understood little. It was so late when we got our new car that we walked across the parking lot to a Holiday Inn Express, for the night. All's well that ends well.

Perth and Stirling Castles

Chapel at Scone Castle

 On Saturday we headed north of Edinburgh to Perth and Scone (scoone) castles. Scone was where many kings were crowned when the real "Stone of Destiny" was here. Now a beautiful mansion with a small chapel and grounds with peacocks and the long haired Highland cattle.

Earl on his Stone of Destiny

This feels about right!

Kate and Earl on the replica of the Stone at Scone

The Scone Castle, rebuilt as a residence. Queen Victoria slept here....

Aye, laddy...wots yer hurry?

Stirling Castle west of Perth

Stirling has just been restored. You feel as though in a knight's tale here.

Perfect legoland castle